What is it about spending some down time in the orchard-dotted slopes near Camino and Placerville that nudges us into a dreamy-eyed state of bliss?
Is it the refreshing mountain air?
The glorious pastoral landscape?
Or could it be the wine we’ve been sipping?
As our super-friendly server presents us with a fresh flight of “mystical” reds, we happily conclude that it must be all of the above.
We have come to the historic Boeger Winery in a region known simply by most as Apple Hill and have instantly fallen in love with its enchanting, fairy-tale-like layout. We’re seated at a wooden picnic table with grass under our feet and a canopy of redwood branches above our heads. Nearby, a pond is fed by a babbling brook.
And we’re gloating over the pleasure of it all.
This picturesque estate encompasses a Gold Rush era homestead that was once a winery and distillery before being shut down during Prohibition. It wasn’t until the early 1970s that former Sacramento residents Greg and Sue Boeger turned the property into the area’s first modern commercial winery. Still standing here is a small, two-story fieldstone structure that was built in 1872.
These days, Boeger and eight other wineries are part of the Apple Hill Growers Association. They each provide a unique taste of the Sierra Foothills while also serving as a valuable reminder that the Apple Hill experience has become about so much more than pastries, ciders and pies.
“It used to be that people would come for the apples and they would be surprised to discover, ‘Oh, there’s a winery up there,’” says winemaker Justin Boeger, who has a thing for offbeat varietals and blends with a special emphasis on Barbera. “Now, the wineries have a prime spot on their checklist of things to do.”
Speaking of things to do, this El Dorado County land of plenty offers a dizzying array of activities all year long, but especially during the brisk days of autumn, when the rolling countryside is swarming with visitors from the Bay Area and all over Northern California.
At the always-popular High Hill Ranch, alone, you can fish for trout from a small lake or take a wagon tour of the orchard. There are pony rides for the kids, crafts fairs and a pick-your-own pumpkin patch.
But that’s hardly it. Apple Hill Christmas tree farms open in November. Also, There are nature trails to stroll, corn mazes to conquer, handmade chocolates to wolf down and scenic beauty to observe. Everywhere you go, the aromas of fruit and pine mingle, and there isn’t a Taco Bell in sight.
We naturally want in on some of that Apple Hill action — even though we could easily veg out in the Boeger gardens forever. So we hop in the car and make our way along twisty Carson Road, curious to see what new discoveries lay around each and every bend.
I should note that our single-day getaway occurred in early August — a period when many of the farms run by Apple Hill Growers had yet to fully open. Also, at press time in late August, smoke from the nearby Caldor Fire hung heavy in the air — a reminder that tourists can sometimes be hampered by California’s always capricious wildfire season.
Among our first stops is Hidden Star Camino, which features a 16-tap craft cider bar. It is adjoined by a bakery, which we assume is top-notch because several local residents have bellied up to the counter. Among their suggestions: try the blackberry cheesecake. No need to tell us twice.
It’s not long before my inner child is drawn to an area on the Hidden Star property dubbed Kid’s Town. It’s teeming with miniature wooden structures to climb on and romp through, including a church, a hotel, a pirate ship and even a jail (where bail is set at 10 cents). So playfully imaginative and fun — a great place for the kiddies to blow off some energy while mom and dad take in the scenery.
From there, it’s off to the sprawling Boa Vista Orchards’ open-air farm market, where heaping mounds of fresh fruit and produce vie for attention with a hard cider tasting bar. We, however, are mainly seduced by the apple-centric sweets. So it’s calories-be-damned as we load up on an array of mouthwatering fritters, turnovers, strudel and apple-cinnamon donuts, all boxed up for future consumption.
The gastronomic adventure continues with a late lunch at Pine-O-Mine Ranch. There, a hulking, but unpretentious barn is surrounded by an expansive sweep of lawn dotted with picnic tables. Inside the barn, they’ve got craft beers and hard ciders on tap — the perfect complement to the freshly barbecued delicacies being served outside.
As we chow down on generous pulled-pork sandwiches, I’m overcome by the bucolic time-warp feel of it all. At any moment, I practically expect to see Andy and Opie emerge from the barn and make their way to the nearest fishing hole.
Meanwhile, I totally get what Justin Boeger means when he talks about “a magical connection to the land” that visitors feel when they return year after year to Apple Hill.
“It’s kind of an agricultural paradise that represents what so many people value these days,” he says.
Our afternoon in paradise winds down with a visit to Edio Winery at Delfino Farms. Talk about the perfect bookends — a day that began at Boeger, the oldest winery in the area, concludes with the newest one.
The Delfino family has a long history in El Dorado County, having welcomed guests to their farm and bakery since 1964. Last spring, in the middle of the COVID-19 shutdown, they bolstered their offerings by opening a tasting room and winery on their property and named it in honor of Edio Delfino, the late patriarch who founded the farm.
And what they’ve done with the place is amazing. The tasting room — and store — is housed in an impressive rustic-industrial building featuring several nods to the past. It opens out to a wide deck that dramatically juts over acres of albarino grapes.
Perched at nearly 3,000 feet, Edio is one of the highest vineyards in California. While enjoying fine alpine wines and great conversation, guests are treated to a gorgeous tapestry of vine-laced knolls, 60-year-old apple trees and a thick blanket of cedars. Off in the distance are the granite peaks of Desolation Wilderness.
And on this incredible day, sunlight lays like a glaze over it all.
“It’s really a dream come true for us,” says Christine Delfino Noonan.
A dream, indeed. Christine, and her brothers Peter and Derek, founded the vineyard after studying agriculture and viticulture at Cal Poly and working at wineries in San Luis Obispo County. Apparently, their wine is as good as the views. The 2019 Mourvedre, for example, recently earned a score of 94 points from Wine Enthusiast.
“We’re creating a bit of a stir,” Noonan says, referring to not only Edio, but its neighboring vineyards. “… It’s awesome to see people fall in love with what you love.”
That love, of course, is well-earned. As we inhale all the warm vibes in weary contentment, we know for sure that we’ll be back — and that many memories will be created here.
If You Go
Boeger Winery: Open year-round from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily at 1709 Carson Road in Placerville; www.boegerwinery.com.
Edio Winery at Delfino Farms: Open year-round from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Thursday through Monday at 3205 N. Canyon Road, Building 1, in Camino; www.shop.delfinofarms.com.
Boa Vista Orchards: Open year-round from 7:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily at 2952 Carson Road in Placerville; www.boavista.com.
Hidden Star Camino: Open from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily through Nov. 30, and Fridays and weekends beginning Dec. 1 at 4220 North Canyon Road in Camino; www.hiddenstarcamino.com.
High Hill Ranch: Open from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. weekdays and 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. weekends through Dec. 24 at 2901 High Hill Road in Placerville; www.highhillranch.com.
Pine-O-Mine Ranch: Open from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. daily through Dec. 31 at 2620 Carson Road in Placerville; www.pineomine.com.
Find more information on other Apple Hill Grower venues and seasonal events and activities at www.applehill.com.
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