The baton has been passed from iconic Rockridge restaurant Oliveto to the new owners of ACRE Kitchen & Bar (in Rockridge Market Hall at 5655 College Ave). ACRE started serving Dec. 19 in the almost sacred space formerly occupied by the now-defunct Oliveto, and despite opening during the holiday hubbub (with stormy weather to boot) managing partner Pete Sittnick says he’s pleased with the response. He’s also very aware of the shoes he and his staff have to fill.

“Oliveto and Bob and Maggie Klein — they’d been here for 35 years. That is monumental for any restaurant, and we knew that they’d endeared themselves to the neighborhood,” says Sittnick.

On a recent Saturday night when the rain had subsided and neighbors were eager to get out, they came in pairs and parties of four — and even larger — to dine at ACRE. Your first impression may be how warm and inviting the restaurant seems, with soft music playing over the Constellation system by Meyer Sound that offers excellent acoustics for enjoying conversation.

Juicy chickens turn lazily on their spits in a stone oven over a wood-fired hearth that sets the mood as you enter. A minibar stands in the center of the busy dining room to ensure that wine is poured quickly and efficiently for patrons. And as an homage to the rich culinary history of the space, an upstairs wall is covered with photos from the Oliveto days, including framed recipe cards from former Oliveto owner and Montclair resident Bob Klein.

In the kitchen, chef and co-owner Dirk Tolsma is masterfully creating Mediterranean-influenced dishes with ingredients he takes pride in sourcing himself. He rides his bike to the restaurant and the farmers market, celebrating his family roots in Oakland.

“It’s where my mother was raised, so it’s very personal for me to join the storied East Bay restaurant community,” he says.

Tolsma’s resume is impressive, having served as chef de cuisine for the last five years at EPIC Steak in San Francisco, and previously at the prestigious Auberge du Soleil in Napa and Cyrus in Healdsburg.

Meanwhile, Sittnick works the front of the house, greeting guests. He’s no stranger to this kind of hands-on hospitality, having managed some of San Francisco’s most celebrated restaurants, including Kuleto’s and Farallon.

“Oliveto had so many loyal guests, and when we came in … we said, ‘Look, we’re going to do exactly the same thing in terms of the emotional connection that we want to make with the neighborhood,’ ” says Sittnick. “We want the locals to be welcomed here. We want this to be their favorite restaurant, and we’re going to go out and meet them … and thank them, and ask them to come back.”

To that end, the atmosphere is welcoming, with tables just close enough together to invite conversation with the party next to you. A full bar around the corner overlooks the busy streetscape below, and two former closets have been turned into cozy alcoves for couples who want a more private dining experience. Downstairs, there’s a bright, airy café serving classic cocktails and specialty pizzas, among other offerings, in a more casual atmosphere.

Throughout the house there’s a notable cheery disposition among the wait staff, something Sittnick says he prioritizes in the hiring process.

“What we looked for first was personality because we can teach people about food and wine and technical service; but you really can’t teach people to like people. You either have it or you don’t.”

Part of the Acre mission statement, he said, is that everything is everyone’s job.

“There’s no person who’s above doing anything within the restaurant that needs to happen in order to help the dining experience be the best it can be.”

To learn more about this much-anticipated restaurant including hours and menu items, visit acrekitchenandbar.com online.

Ginny Prior can be followed on Twitter, Instagram, Facebook and at ginnyprior.com. Email her at ginnyprior@hotmail.com.